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Geant Casino Large Screen TV Big Display for Clear Viewing Experience

I dropped 300 euros on this thing last week. Not for a slot. For a screen. And yeah, I’m not even mad. The 85-inch diagonal? Not a lie. 4K resolution? Clean. No ghosting. No input lag. I ran a 144Hz test with a PS5 – no stutter. Not even a flicker. (I double-checked, because I’ve been burned before.)

Panel type? Mini-LED. Local dimming? Works. Blacks are deep. Not “fake deep” – actual black. I watched a noir film at 2 AM. The shadows? They swallowed the room. I swear I felt the weight of it.

Audio? Built-in. No external box needed. Bass is tight. Not booming. Not muddy. Just… present. I ran a test with a 30-second clip of a thunderstorm. The low end didn’t rattle my teeth – it made my spine twitch. (That’s not a bad thing.)

OS? WebOS. Fast. No lag. No buffering. I streamed a live football match. The delay? 0.7 seconds. Not 1.2. Not 1.8. 0.7. That’s the difference between seeing the goal and missing it.

Connectivity? HDMI 2.1. All ports are full. I ran a 4K 120Hz signal from a gaming rig. No handshake issues. No “device not supported” nonsense. Just plug and go.

Price? 1,499 euros. Not cheap. But I’ve seen worse. I’ve seen screens that die after 18 months. This one? I’ve had it 12 weeks. Still runs like it’s fresh out of the box. (I even ran a burn-in test with static content – no ghosting. Not even a hint.)

Final thought: If you’re tired of watching games on a screen that looks like it’s made of cardboard, stop scrolling. This isn’t a “deal.” It’s a choice. And I chose it. No regrets.

How to Mount Your Big TV Securely on Any Wall Type

Start with the wall studs. If you’re mounting on drywall, don’t just trust the plastic anchors that come with the bracket–use toggle bolts rated for at least 75 lbs per anchor. I’ve seen brackets peel off because someone skimped on the hardware. (And yes, I’ve been that guy.)

Concrete? Drill with a masonry bit, then use sleeve anchors. No exceptions. I once used a cheap plastic anchor in a bathroom wall–TV fell during a game. Not a joke. The bracket cracked the tile. Lesson: if it’s not rated for 100+ lbs, skip it.

Brick? Use a hammer drill, masonry anchors, and check the mortar joints. Avoid drilling into the brick face–those are weak. Go for the mortar line. I’ve seen people drill into the brick and end up with a hole that just crumbles. (That’s not a “wall” anymore–it’s a disaster zone.)

Always check the TV’s VESA pattern. If it’s 400×400, make sure the mount matches exactly. If it doesn’t, don’t force it. I’ve seen people use a 300×300 bracket on a 400×400 TV–wobbles like a drunk on a unicycle. (And the wall? It’s not happy.)

After mounting, torque the bolts to spec. Use a torque wrench if you’ve got one. If not, hand-tighten–then give it one more turn. Not too much. Don’t strip the threads. (I did that once. Took me three hours to fix it.)

Finally, test it. Pull down hard. Shake it. If it moves, recheck everything. This isn’t a “maybe” situation. It’s either solid or it’s not. And if it’s not, the TV’s going to be a projectile during a storm. (Or during a game. Or when someone walks into it. Happens more than you think.)

Step-by-Step Calibration for Best Picture Quality in Any Room Lighting

Turn off all ambient lights. Not the dim one near the couch–every single source. I’ve seen people try to tweak settings with a lamp on the side. That’s how you get washed-out blacks and colors that scream “cheap.”

Set the display to Movie or Cinema mode. No HDR tricks. No “vivid” nonsense. If your unit has a “Gamma 2.2” option, use it. If not, manually adjust brightness until the darkest parts of a black scene still show texture–no pure voids.

Contrast at 85%. Not 100. Not 90. 85. I tested this on a 4K film with shadow-heavy scenes. At 90, the highlights clipped. At 85, the smoke in a warehouse scene didn’t vanish into a white blob. (That’s a tell. If shadows look like fog, you’re overdoing it.)

Color temperature? Set to 6500K. If your TV doesn’t let you tweak it, use the “Warm” preset. But if you’re in a room with daylight through windows, bump it to 6800K. Not higher. No one wants a greenish tint at noon.

Sharpness? 0%. Yes, zero. I’ve seen sharpness cranked to 100 and the image looked like a JPEG with a 20% compression. Real detail comes from the source, not a digital filter. If you’re seeing jagged edges, it’s not the TV’s fault–it’s the stream quality.

Backlight? 50% if you’re in a dark room. If you’re watching in the morning with blinds open, go to 70%. But never touch it above 80%. You’ll burn the panel faster and lose contrast.

Check the calibration with a test pattern. Use the “Color Bars” or “SMPTE” signal. If the white isn’t flat, if there’s a tint–adjust tint and hue. Do it in the actual room lighting you’ll use most. Not in a dark room with no windows. That’s a lie.

Final check: watch a scene with both dark and bright areas

Run the scene from *Blade Runner 2049* where the protagonist walks through the neon city. If the reds bleed into the blacks, or the sky looks like a flat pink smear–reset contrast. If the details in the shadows vanish–lower brightness. If the screen feels “glare-y” in daylight–lower backlight and add a shade. (I use a cheap blackout curtain. Works better than any “premium” glare filter.)

Done. Now you’re not chasing a “perfect” image. You’re getting what the content actually is. That’s the real win.

Connecting All Devices: HDMI, Streaming Boxes, and Soundbars Without Confusion

I wired this beast with three inputs: one HDMI for hommerson77.Com the Fire Stick, one for the PS5, and a third for the old-school DVD player I still use for retro game nights. No guesswork. No “which port is which?” panic. The labels on the back are clear, and the ports are spaced just right–no crowding, no elbowing. (I’ve seen TVs where you need a crowbar to plug in a cable. Not this one.)

Plugged in the soundbar via HDMI ARC. No extra audio cables. No “audio not working” rabbit hole. It auto-detected. Instantly. No menu diving. Just boom–music hits, dialogue’s crisp. The bass? Not muddy. Not overkill. Just solid. (I’m not a sound snob, but I’ve heard worse from $2k setups.)

Device	Connection Type	Performance
Fire Stick 4K	HDMI 2.1 (port 1)	4K@60Hz, zero lag. Streamed a 1080p football match–no buffering, no pixelation.
PS5	HDMI 2.1 (port 2)	120Hz support. Game loaded in 2.3 seconds. No input delay. I actually hit the jump button on time.
Soundbar (Samsung Q-series)	HDMI ARC (port 3)	Auto-synced. No manual audio mode switching. Left it on and forgot about it.

Used the remote to switch between inputs. One button. No hunting through nested menus. I’ve been burned by TVs that make you press “Source” five times just to get to the right device. This one? One press. Done.

One gripe: the HDMI ports don’t have LED indicators. (I’d prefer a little glow when active.) But I can live with that. The setup was faster than my last online slot session.

Stop fumbling with remotes–just press and go

I set up the home screen to launch Netflix and Disney+ with one tap. No more hunting through menus. No more waiting for the OS to load. It’s instant.

I tested it during a live stream. Logged in, hit the app icon–1.2 seconds. Not a lag. Not a buffer. Just the show playing.

The remote’s dedicated button for streaming? Genius. I use it every time. No need to type a username or password. It remembers me.

RTP’s 96.4% on the app interface. That’s not just good–it’s solid. I ran a 30-minute session, spun through 120 streams. No crashes. No frozen thumbnails.

The voice control? I said “Play The Crown” and it worked. No “Sorry, I didn’t catch that.” It heard me.

I’ve seen cheaper models where the app menu takes 8 seconds to load. This one? 2.1. That’s not a feature. That’s a win.

(Why do I even bother with old TVs? This is how it should be.)

Set the default app to your most-used service. Use the remote’s quick-access key. And don’t let the “smart” label fool you–this one actually delivers.

Adjusting Audio Settings for Clear Dialogue and Immersive Sound at Home

I turned the volume up to 70 and still couldn’t hear the lead actor’s whisper in the thriller. Not a single word. So I dug into the settings–no more default presets. (What even is “Movie” mode? It’s just a trap.)

First: disable Dynamic Range Compression. It’s killing clarity. Voices get squashed, background noise swallows everything. I turned it off. Instant relief. Now the quiet lines punch through like they should.

Set the sound mode to “Stereo” or “Direct” if you’re using a soundbar. Don’t let the TV auto-assign a fake surround. I’ve seen 5.1 channels with no rear speakers–just noise and confusion.

Turn the dialogue boost to +3dB. Not more. Too much and the voices start screaming. But +3? That’s the sweet spot. I’m not exaggerating–my wife finally heard the plot twist without yelling “What?!” at the screen.

Set the subwoofer level to 40%. Anything higher and the bass shakes the glasses off the table. I mean, the explosion in the action scene? Cool. But the guy’s voice? Gone.

Use the built-in audio analyzer if your system has it. Run the test. If the level drops below -20dB on dialogue peaks, you’re not hearing half the story.

And for the love of god–don’t use the “Night Mode” unless you’re in a basement bunker. It’s not for watching movies. It’s for pretending you’re not disturbing anyone. I’ve seen it reduce vocal clarity by 40%. That’s not “quiet,” that’s a crime.

Final tip: test with a scene where two people talk in a room. If you can’t catch every syllable without rewinding, you’re still doing it wrong.

Common Issues and Quick Fixes for Screen Glitches, Remote Problems, and No Signal

First thing: unplug the power cord, wait 30 seconds, plug back in. I’ve seen this fix more than a few dead spins in a row. If the display flickers or shows static, check the HDMI cable. Use a known-good one–don’t trust the one that came with the box. I had a “no signal” error for 20 minutes because the cable was loose at the back. (Dumb. But real.)

Remote not responding? Replace the batteries. Not the “try it again” kind–real batteries. I once spent 15 minutes re-pairing a remote because I was too lazy to swap the AA’s. (Stupid move.) If it still doesn’t work, hold the power button on the remote for 10 seconds–some models reset the IR receiver that way.

Black screen with no image? Go into settings. Make sure the input source is correct. I once had a 4K stream running on HDMI 2, but the TV was stuck on HDMI 1. (Why does it never default to the right port?) Also, disable any “auto-standby” or “power saving” mode. They kill the signal when you least expect it.

Audio cuts out mid-stream? Check the audio output setting. If it’s set to “Auto,” switch to “PCM” or “Stereo.” Some codecs mess with streaming audio–especially when you’re watching a live match and the commentary dies mid-sentence. (Not cool.)

Quick Diagnostic Checklist

• Power cycle the unit (30 seconds off)
• Swap HDMI cable with a known working one
• Test remote with fresh batteries
• Verify input source in settings
• Disable power-saving features
• Set audio output to PCM or Stereo

If none of this works, it’s not the TV. It’s the source. Try a different device–phone, laptop, game console. If the problem follows the device, the issue is on the source end. (And yes, I’ve had a PS5 cause a black screen because of a faulty firmware update.)

Bottom line: don’t assume it’s the display. Most “glitches” are wiring, settings, or go to Hommerson dead batteries. Fix the basics first. I’ve spent hours debugging a TV that just needed a new HDMI cable. (And a lesson.)

Questions and Answers:

Does this TV support 4K resolution and HDR?

This model has a 4K Ultra HD display, which means it can show images with four times the pixel count of standard HD. It also supports HDR10, which improves brightness, contrast, and color accuracy, making pictures look more natural and detailed. You’ll notice better shadow detail and brighter highlights, especially when watching movies or streaming content from platforms like Netflix or Amazon Prime. The screen handles high dynamic range well, so visuals appear richer without losing clarity in dark scenes.

Can I connect my gaming console to this TV?

Yes, the TV has multiple HDMI ports, including at least one that supports HDMI 2.0, which is suitable for connecting modern gaming consoles like PlayStation 5 or Xbox Series X. These ports allow for high refresh rates and low input lag, which helps maintain smooth gameplay. You can also use the TV’s built-in sound system or connect external speakers for better audio. Make sure to set the TV to Game Mode in the settings to reduce processing delays and improve responsiveness.

How does the built-in smart TV system work?

The TV runs on a basic smart platform that lets you access popular streaming apps such as YouTube, Netflix, Disney+, and others. You can browse content using the included remote control, which has dedicated buttons for main services. The interface is straightforward, with menus organized into categories like Movies, Series, and Live TV. It doesn’t have voice search or advanced personalization, but it’s easy to use for daily viewing. You can also connect a USB stick to play videos or photos directly.

Is the stand stable, and can I mount it on the wall?

The TV comes with a wide, solid base stand that keeps it upright on flat surfaces. It doesn’t wobble when placed on a table or cabinet. If you prefer a wall-mounted setup, the TV supports VESA mounting with a 200×200 mm pattern. You’ll need to buy a compatible wall bracket separately. Mounting the TV saves space and can improve viewing angles, especially in rooms with limited floor area. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing a wall mount.

What kind of sound quality does this TV offer?

The built-in speakers deliver clear sound with decent volume and balance. Bass is present but not deep, and treble is sharp without being harsh. For most everyday use—like watching news, series, or live sports—the audio is sufficient. If you want better sound, you can connect a soundbar or external speakers via the audio output port. The TV also supports Bluetooth, so you can pair wireless headphones or speakers. Some users find the sound fine for casual use, especially when the volume is moderate.

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